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The Basics of Sewing Knit Fabric
Knit fabrics are known for their stretchiness and comfort, making them popular choices for clothing items like T-shirts, dresses, and activewear. However, sewing with knit fabric can be a bit tricky if you're not familiar with the right techniques. In this article, we will guide you through the process of sewing knit fabric, from choosing the right needle and thread to handling stretch and finishing techniques.
Choosing the Right Needle and Thread
When it comes to sewing knit fabric, using the right needle and thread is crucial. A ballpoint or stretch needle is recommended for knits, as it helps prevent skipped stitches and fabric damage. The rounded tip of these needles slides between the fabric's fibers instead of piercing them, resulting in a cleaner stitch. For thread, opt for polyester or cotton-wrapped polyester threads, as they have a good stretch and durability.
Preparing the Fabric
Prior to sewing, it's important to prepare your knit fabric to ensure a successful project. Start by prewashing and drying the fabric to minimize shrinkage. Then, lay it out on a flat surface and smooth out any wrinkles. If the fabric tends to curl at the edges, you can use fabric weights or pins to hold it in place. Avoid stretching the fabric during this process, as it can distort the final garment.
Stabilizing and Cutting
Stabilizing the fabric is essential for maintaining its shape and preventing stretching while sewing. One common technique is to use strips of lightweight, fusible knit interfacing along the seams or hems. This helps stabilize the fabric without adding bulk. When cutting the fabric, it's best to use a rotary cutter or sharp scissors to ensure clean edges. Consider using pattern weights instead of pins to avoid stretching the fabric.
Choosing the Right Stitch
When sewing knit fabric, the choice of stitch can greatly impact the final result. The most commonly used stitches for knits are the straight stitch, zigzag stitch, and stretch stitch. The straight stitch is suitable for stable knits, while the zigzag stitch provides more elasticity. The stretch stitch, often found on sewing machines, is specifically designed for knits and provides the most stretch without breaking the stitches.
Handling Stretch and Seam Allowances
Dealing with the stretch of knit fabric can be challenging, especially when it comes to seam allowances. One effective technique is to slightly stretch the fabric while sewing, allowing it to retain its shape when worn. However, be cautious not to stretch it too much, as it can result in puckering or distorted seams. For seam allowances, it's recommended to trim them down to reduce bulk and prevent them from showing through the fabric.
Finishing Techniques for Knit Fabric
Properly finishing your knit fabric is crucial for achieving a professional-looking garment. One popular method is using a double needle to create parallel rows of stitching on hems and edges. This technique provides a decorative finish while allowing the fabric to stretch. Another option is using a coverstitch machine, which creates a professional-looking, stretchable hem. If you don't have access to a coverstitch machine, you can use a zigzag stitch or twin needle on your regular sewing machine.
Troubleshooting Common Issues
While sewing with knit fabric, you may encounter a few common issues. For example, skipped stitches can occur if the needle is too small or dull. Changing to a larger or new needle can help solve this problem. Puckering or wavy seams can be caused by excessive stretching or incorrect tension. Experimenting with the pressure and tension settings on your sewing machine can help achieve a smoother result. Additionally, using a walking foot attachment can help prevent fabric slippage and ensure even feeding.
Exploring Different Types of Knit Fabrics
Knit fabric comes in various types, each with its own characteristics and sewing considerations. Some common types include jersey, interlock, rib knit, and French terry. Jersey fabric is lightweight and often used for T-shirts, while interlock is thicker and more stable. Rib knit has a textured appearance and is commonly used for cuffs and collars. French terry has loops on the backside and is frequently used for cozy sweatshirts and loungewear.
Additional Tips for Sewing Knit Fabric
Here are a few additional tips to enhance your sewing experience with knit fabric:
- Use a walking foot or a stretch presser foot to ensure smooth and even feeding of the fabric.
- Experiment with different stitch lengths and widths to find the optimal settings for your specific fabric.
- Consider using a serger or overlock machine to finish raw edges and seams for a professional look.
- Practice on scrap fabric before sewing your final garment to familiarize yourself with the techniques.
- Don't be afraid to use pins or clips to secure your fabric layers together, especially when dealing with slippery knits.